Olive Oil and a Medieval Village

Docking
Brindisi Harbour, Italy
May 19, 2024

 Our ship, Celebrity Constellation, sailed into the Port of Brindisi this morning for our port call. Chris and I were scheduled for a much shorter 4-hour tour rather than the 8-10 hour tours we have been enjoying. Today only had two stops: the medieval village of Ostuni and an Olive Oil factory in Cisternino, Italy. 

Out the Bus Window
Ostuni, Italy
May 19, 2024

We also had a much more reasonable departure time for the tour of 11 AM, rather than the 7:15 AM departures of the past two days. That meant we could enjoy breakfast. Our first stop of the day was Ostuni. It was about a 45-minute drive from the port. Ostuni is a village atop a mountain and the entire village is white. Tradition has it that the whitewashed buildings protected the village from the plague during the Middle Ages.

Piazza della Liberta
Ostuni, Italy
May 19, 2024

We enjoyed a couple hours in Ostuni. The town was alive on a Sunday morning and we walked to the cathedral at the top of the village. Seeing the sights and enjoying some local pizza and gelato for lunch was how we spent our time. Almost too quickly, it was time to get on the bus for the next part of the day's touring.

Old Method Olive Crushing
Nettare de Olivia, Cisternino, Italy
May 19, 2024

We were off to the Olive Oil factory. This was a most interesting experience. I found the process of producing oil from olives to have some similarities to the that of getting juice from grapes! There is the sorting, the washing, and then the pressing of the olives. 

Selfie in front of a Blooming Olive Tree
Nettare de Olivia, Cisternino, Italy
May 19, 2024

What I learned, however, is that there are two ways to press olives: with and without the pits! Without the pits is a new production method and only being done by seven olive oil facilities in Italy. We were treated to samples of olive oil from both processes infused into bread so that we could experience firsthand the differences. The factory also produces wine and beer as well as cosmetics made from olives. No part of the olive goes to waste and the busy season is from September to January as the olives are picked and processed. We weregild they work 24 hour per day to process the olives as quickly as possible once they are picked.

The day was over, almost too soon and we returned to the ship. Yes, we have some olive oil with us to help remember our time in Cisternino.

Tomorrow is a down day for us. The ship will dock in Dubrovnik, Croatia, but we do not have a schedule tour and will take some time in the morning to ourselves before hearing out to explore during the afternoon. 

-- Bob Doan, about the Celebrity Constellation in the Adriatic Sea

Elusive Mt Etna

Mt Etna
Giarre, Sicily from the Expressway
May 18, 2024

It was hard to believe, but one of the biggest and most active volcanos in the world played hard to see today. We headed off the ship and out into the Sicilian countryside where Mt. Etna dominates the landscape only to be engulfed in a nearly impenetrable fog, which about mid-afternoon became a driving rainstorm. I had become accustomed to the crystal blue skies and bright sun, but not today. 

I managed to snap one quick image from the moving bus as we were returning to the port. I thought I briefly spied the top of Mt. Etna through the mist and hoped the camera would be able to pull the volcano out of the mist--and it did. Unfortunately, we were passing a gas station at the time and I did not have a lot of time to frame and focus the image. On the other hand, we have visited two volcanos in two days!

Main Street
Taormina, Sicily, Italy
May 18, 2024

On tap for today was visiting a medieval town, Taormina; a lava flow from the 1992 eruption of Mt Etna; a winery on the slopes of Mt Etna; and a jewelry factory. Sadly we could not pick and choose our stops.

Taormina was a bit of a disappointment. A great town with a lot of potential, but we arrived about 8 AM and most of the shops were closed and only began opening as we departed at 10 AM. We had the chance to view the city gates and walk the length of main street  to enjoy a coffee and filled croissant.  

Lava Rocks from the 1992 Lava Flow
Zafferana Etnea, Sicily, Italy
 May 18, 2024

Next was a long drive to and about halfway up Mt Etna to see one of the lava rivers from the 1992 eruption that nearly destroyed a village until it was successfully diverted. This was a short stop, about 15 minutes to see the lava rocks and imagine the destruction had the lava flow not been diverted.  

Murgo Winery
Santa Venerina, Sicily, Italy
May 18, 2024

Then we drove back down the mountain to a small winery to enjoy samples of wine and olives. It was a great stop and thoroughly enjoyable. The winery provided olives, dried tomatoes, and other assorted snacks along with tasting their wines. They ship to the United States, but frankly the wines, with the exception of the sparkling wine, were not exceptional. It was a very enjoyable stop before heading to our last item on the itinerary: the jewelry factory. 

Chris and I in the Motor Launch
Salerno, Italy
May 17, 2024

I am not going to write about the factory because it is a must miss and one of those stops designed to part cruise patrons with their money. They did serve a sumptuous snack after the tour and time in the showroom, but it would have been time better spent elsewhere. We also got back to the ship late, but fortunately were on a Celebrity-sponsored excursion and so they had to wait for us.

I added a bonus picture for the day. It was one taken yesterday as we were preparing to motor off to tour the Amalfi Coast. One of the deck hands snapped this image for us.

-- Bob Doan, Celebrity Constellation, Ionian Sea

Amalfi Coast and Pompeii

Mt Vesuvius (right) in the Morning Light
From Celebrity Constellation in Naples, Italy
May 17, 2024

 We played another day of excursion survival today--but it was worth it.

The day started cool and we thoroughly enjoyed a motor launch tour of the Amalfi Coast from Sorrento to Amalfi (and then return later).

Along the Amalfi Coast nearing Amalfi
Amalfi, Italy
May 17, 2024

The day dawned as our ship berthed in Naples, Italy, and Chris and I made a 7:15 AM muster call for our excursion. It was another all day excursion. I was excited for our tour of the Amalfi coast and subsequent visit to Pompeii! I have always wanted to go to Pompeii and I was not to be disappointed.

Beginning in Salerno, we boarded a motor launch to tour the Amalfi Coast. The coast was beautiful in the cool morning air as we plied the waters. Around each mountain bend there was a new treasure to enjoy. We sent some time exploring Amalfi and enjoying the limoncello and gelato. Then it was time to board the motor launch to retrace our steps to Salerno. 

Then it was off to Pompeii, well after a great Italian lunch of pasta and chicken along with both white and red wines appropriate for the meal.

Looking Down a Street of Houses
Pompeii, Italy
May 17, 2024

I was on archeological overload in Pompeii. The idea that his apparently vibrant city was destroyed in just over a day with residents fleeing to the sea and many more dying in their homes was hard to wrap my head around. This was a complete city, as I learned, and a large city with multistory homes and shops. It was a growing center and the record left behind buried in the volcanic ash attests to how advanced were these 1st Century AD Romans. They had a fatal flaw, however, using lead pipes to provide running water. We saw some of the original lead pipes. Additionally, it seemed that STIs were a problem for the Pompeiians as well. 

Main Square looking to Mt Vesuvius
Pompeii, Italy
May 17, 2024

We toured a bakery, other stores, the gym and baths, as well as the bordello. Arriving at the main square, it was clear that this was a thriving metropolis that the volcano destroyed. And it was advanced. Apparently Pompeiians lived quite comfortably. We looked into the barracks where the gladiators lived as well as into the small theater where they fought. I captured many images, but our tour was a short overview of the site. I thirst for more time to explore and see what has been uncovered in the centuries of excavations. 

What a great and exhausting day!

I will likely never return, although I wish that someday I  might.

-- Bob Doan, Bay of Naples aboard the Celebrity Constellation

Sea Day--Much Needed

Art in the Stairwell
Celebrity Constellation
May 16, 2024

Today was a much needed sea day. We slept in late, took breakfast in the main dining room, and just lazed around the ship. 

It was nice not having to race off to an excursion or to be anywhere specific at a given time. Wow! I thought this was a vacation and not a race. I still think it is a survival episode. 

We are on the Celebrity Constellation and I have to admit, some of the art is hard to understand--like the lawn weeds. Yup, dandelions. There are exhibits on the midship stairs of lawn weeds. 

Rhino in the Woods
Portofino, Italy
May 15, 2024

The sea was relatively smooth and we enjoyed the hot tub during the morning to soothe the worn muscles. We need to be ready for another extensive excursion tomorrow in Naples, the Amalfi Coast and off to Pompeii. Pompeii is one of my must do stops on this trip to Italy! I have been intrigued by Pompeii since I was a child.

As for the sea day, we needed the rest. We have canceled our excursion in Dubrovnik so that we get a rest later in the cruise before the final few days. I think our schedule was just a bit too aggressive. Lesson learned. Tomorrow is another almost 10 hour excursion, but three-hours of it are transportation too and from. 

Ponte Vecchio
Florence, Italy
May 15, 2024

And about some of the strange things we have seen, the Rhino hanging in the woods in Portofino is at the top of the list right now. It was just, out of place. But hey, art is very personal.

One of the highlights of the trip that I have not written about was seeing the Ponte Vecchio in Florence. What a very interesting bridge which dates back to the Middle Ages. Originally a meat market and not the current gold market with jewelers, sadly we did not have time to explore the bridge and the market, but it's history and the fact that it is the only original Florentine bridge not destroyed during WW2 is fascinating. 

There are so many images that Chris and I have captured and we expect to capture many more tomorrow and on the succeeding days as we delve further into Italian history, present and ancient. 

Amazingly, we are not yet halfway into our cruise and only one week into our 19 day European holiday. 

Wow--

Who knows what tomorrow will bring to us?

-- Bob Doan, aboard the Celebrity Constellation in the Tyrrhenian Sea

Portofino and the Pearls

 

Truck on an Almost Large Enough Street
Portofino, Italy
May 15, 2024

Another day of walking tours and ferry rides marked most of our activities today. 

The total excursion time was shorter, but coming off a 10-hour day the day before, it seemed almost longer even though we made it back to the ship by 2 PM. We then took a much needed nap and enjoyed some quiet afternoon relaxation to recharge from the past two days. Thankfully, tomorrow is a sea day! Yay. Nothing much planned and certainly not another 14,000 step day. 

Sundial on a Building
Rapallo, Italy
May 15, 2024

We began the morning in Portofino! We were tendered from the ship to the port and that was an experience. And then there was the rain which made the steep streets slick. But we prevailed and saw some inspiring sights although the walking tours are blending into one another. Walking up the steep street in Portofino we came upon a truck driving down the street. There was almost enough room for the pedestrians to pass the truck. Fortunately the truck was smaller than my Ram 1500--because my truck would not fit on this street even with no pedestrians.

After time in Portofino, we ferried to Rapallo, Italy. It was a similar town to Portofino only larger. I found a large sundial on a building in the town square. We were treated to stories of pirates and churches with white robe and other churches with black robes. The tours from the boat created our own crowded conditions in the city, but we enjoyed a focaccia tasting and some coffee during the height of a driving rainstorm. I got very wet, but Chris was lucky to have a raincoat. 

OK, I am gonna say it: I am on walking tour overload. While I am getting a lot of information from the tours, I cannot catalog it all and most of it is getting lost. 

Statue of Christopher Columbus
Santa Margarita, Italy
May 15, 2024

Leaving Rapallo after just about two hours we ferried to Santa Margarita. No, there is no tequila there. 

Santa Margarita is much like Portofino and Rapallo. Built on the coast between the water and the mountain. The rain lessened while we were there, almost stopping. Being wet really made my enthusiasm wane. Santa Margarita is, in my opinion, the most beautiful of the three villages. They have a very nice harbor and a good looking beach. Diving and snorkeling look to be solid activities and the city has many shops. Sadly, by the time we arrived there, being wet and ready to return to the ship, my "who cares" attitude was in play and I missed all of the important historical aspects except that Santa Margarita claims to be the birthplace of Christopher Columbus and not Genoa as we were taught in school. Wait, and they also make expensive limoncello. 

My problem with the walking tours I have been on is that I do not get enough time to immerse myself into the culture and the history. I am getting a broad brush, often without context.

To summarize, today I saw olive trees, busy ports, small cities, mountains, bays, and churches. I am trying to get excited about the places I saw, but due to the rain and overcast I just am coming up short. 

I will enjoy the sea day and use it to improve my attitude. 

Pompeii awaits!

-- Bob Doan, at sea on Celebrity Constellation en route to Naples, Italy

Pisa, Florence, and Pickpockets

Pisa from the Bus
Pisa, Italy
May 14, 2024

The fun continues--with some security issues. Today we went to Pisa and Florence and encountered more pickpockets.

I guess in Italy, for some reason, teen girls choose to be pickpockets. In this case our tour guide identified them and informed them to leave our tour group alone, which they readily agreed to do. 

Pisa was fantastic. We were there early in the morning and able to use some of the beautiful morning light to capture the scene. The image of the cathedral and the Leaning Tower in the morning light that I took from the bus is really special. The walk from the bus parking to the Leaning Tower and Field of Miracles was treacherous, but doable.  

We then bussed to Florence of the remainder of the day and went on a walking tour of the biggest sights in the city. I wish we had more time to actually visit some of the sights, such as the museum where the statue of David resides. We had a great lunch on the tour which was pleasantly authentic Italian with wine! Included. But the free time at the end was far too short and I felt as if we saw the sights, but did not really get to experience them.

Crowds? Did I mention the crushing crowds? Today it was school kids all over the city as the end of the school year approaches. 

Today was a 10-hour tour and we were exhausted as we returned to the ship just before the gangway was supposed to be raised. We were in time for dinner, however.

-- Bob Doan, off the coast of Italy headed to Portofino

Connections and Sunsets

Sunset over the Sea as We Departed
Celebrity Constellation 
May 13, 2024

It was a vacation travel day. We transitioned from our lodging in Rome this morning to a train and then to the ship. There were more than a few moving pieces. 

First we walked the 1.4 km to the Termini train station dragging our luggage. That wasn't bad because I left enough time for us to get a pastry and coffee at one of the station shops. We needed the coffee. I think the last few days are curing me of my caffeine addiction.

Then the real fun began. I had to find which track the train to Citiavecchia, the Port for Rome, was on. Turned out to be platform 27. Then we had to thread our way through the train station, I am wholly unfamiliar with finding platforms in train stations--but we persevered and found our platform before the train arrived.

The trip to the port was over an hour and uneventful. We saw a lot of Italian countryside.  

Celebrity Constellation
Civtitavecchia, Italy
May 13, 2024

Arriving at the port we were faced with a quandary. My advance reading suggested that we could walk forom the train station to the ship. Standing there looking at the situation, and with a total of 7 cruise ships in port, out ship, Celebrity Constellation, was the furthest away and it was a long way. So now I was confronted with the decision to take a crowded bus which did not go all the way to the ship or pay an exorbitant €30 for a taxi for delivery to the ship. We were tired and chose taxi!

We made it to the ship and after standing in the processing line for over an hour because the Rome Port only had half of the security machines working, we arrived on the ship.

The ship is great and we left port shortly after 5 PM. We enjoyed our first dinner on the ship; meeting a nice couple and finding out that our staterooms are next door. 

Weird!

The only problem I am having is that I cannot get images to load into my blogging program due to crappy internet! Ugh! We pay a fortune for internet on the ship only to be confronted with trash!

Ah, well--we were sailing into the red sunset and the sea was almost flat. I have a great image that I will load later. 

Day 5 is complete and Day 6 is Florence and Pisa.

-- Bob Doan, at sea off the Italian Coast

Pickpockets, Sights, and Travel

 

Trevi Fountain
Rome, Italy
May 12, 2024

Chris was targeted twice by pickpockets and survived with no losses. We almost caught the most recent attempt in progress. 

Pickpockets are brutal in Rome. 

Fortunately, although Chris was carrying her purse, nothing valuable was inside. The purse was more of a decoy to protect where Chris was actually caring her valuables. The purse was being used as a place to hold her sunglasses and a couple other small items which were not what the pickpockets were after. 

Crowd at Trevi Fountain
Rome, Italy
MAy 12, 2024

We were on the Metro headed to Trevi Fountain when the most recent pickpocket attempt occurred.

Arriving at the fountain we were amazed at its  beauty, but it was also massively crowded. I understand why the locals believe that the tourists are robbing them of enjoying their local sights and monuments. 

From on top the Spanish Steps
Rome, Italy
May 12, 2024

We mastered the Metro and were able to get from our lodging to the area of the fountain expeditiously and inexpensively. From there we went on to the Spanish Steps.

Chris and I walked up the, I am told 135, steps to the top to enjoy the view of the city and the Piazza di Spagna. The view was beautiful, especially on the glorious weather day we experienced. 

Me at Angie's Restaurant Pizzeria
Rome, Italy
May 12, 2024

After exploring the high end hotels located near the top of the stairs we descended and looked for a place to enjoy a glass of wine and a mid-afternoon meal. We found a restaurant with a view of Spanish Square to enjoy a Mother's Day meal of authentic pasta and wine. By the time we finished our meal, the Piazza di Spagna was filled with people.

Today marks the end of our time in Rome until the very last night of our vacation. We head off to the cruise port later to board a ship for our cruise vacation. I have to admit that I am looking forward to the cruise because I don't have to ensure the logistics of getting from one place to another. For instance, this morning I have to get us from our lodging to the Termini Rail Station and then on the correct train to get to the cruise port, which is over an hour away. But wait--then I have to make sure we get off at the right stop!

 Ah, the joys of travel. 

-- Bob Doan, Rome, Italy

Ceilings

 

Ceiling
Vatican Museum, Vatican City
May 11,2024

Look up!

The ceiling above you may be interesting. 

That is what Chris and I. learned from our tour of the Vatican. The ornate ceilings adorned with works of art as something to be enjoyed. 

Ceiling Decorated with Baroque Style
Vatican Museum, Vatican City
May 11, 2024

No flat ceiling white paint was evident in the Vatican. Every ceiling, it seemed, had a story to tell. 

Why are our ceilings, by comparison, so boring? I remember when I was a senior in high school that my parents let me decorate my bedroom. I chose the colors red and black along with an aluminum foil wallpaper with a black design on it, but topped it all off by having Chris, because she was taller, paint the ceiling red! Now that was an interesting ceiling, for the time. It was too bad that I was off to college in less than a year and never returned to the room.

Seriously, I cannot compare that old country house to the Vatican, but the ceilings in the Vatican are worth looking up to admire. Important safety tip--stop walking when looking up. 

-- Bob Doan, Rome, Italy 

Survivor Tours

 

People in Line to Enter the Vatican Museums
Vatican City
8:21 AM, May 11, 2024

Chris and I played a game of survival tour today. 

Yes. For some reason, known only to me, I thought planning two three-hour tours on the same day would be a good idea. Maybe it was until, due to policy changes by the Italian government, our second tour of the day got moved up to 1:30 PM from 3 PM meaning that we had to hurry lunch and could not return to our AirBnB to freshen up before the second tour. 

The tours were both 3-hour scheduled tours, first of the morning with a 7:50 AM show time was the Vatican for Sistine Chapel and St Peter's Basilica. 

The second was a tour of the Coliseum, the Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill. Two great tours that deserved a day alone for each. I know better now!

St Peter's Basilica
Vatican City
May 11, 2024

The three-hour Vatican tour went four-hours! We learned more about the Vatican Museum, the Sistine Chapel, and St Peter's Basilica than we ever knew possible. Our tour guide was brilliant and we loved it. The big downer of the day? Crowds! OMG-the crowds of people were suffocating. 

Did I mention the crowds were suffocating? I have not been in crowds like this, ever! And it did not stop until we got off the Metro and returned to our AirBnB at the end of the day.

Did I have enough time to enjoy the Vatican museum and its collections? No!

The day started cold, in the 50s and quickly warmed into the high 70s. The skies were clear blue, as can be seen in the photos. The cold start to the morning meant we were over-dressed for most of the day. 

Swiss Guards
Vatican City
May 11, 2024

The Sistine Chapel was fabulous--well, except for the crowds. No pictures are allowed in the Sistine Chapel. I enjoyed seeing the Swiss Guards in their Medieval uniforms. Should I call them cute? It was also awe inspiring to see the place where St. Peter was crucified right behind where I took the image of the Swiss guards. 

We received an expert tour from our guide and we learned more about the painters and the sculptors commissioned by the popes than we ever thought possible. It was interesting both of the tours were insistent that we bring our passports for proof identity, but no one ever checked them. 

The Coliseum Under the Floor
Rome, Italy
May 11, 2024

Returning to the Coliseum, during the afternoon, for an inside tour was exciting.

The Coliseum is just--unimaginable. Yes, we see it in film and pictures, but to see it in person and understand the significance of the structure to the Romans and to grasp their ability to conquer technical engineering feats is remarkable.

We were fortunate to have as our guide a person who is working on her doctorate about bricks used by the Romans and who has extensively studied the Coliseum and participated in archaeological digs of Roman construction. The insights she provided during our over three-hours together were incredible. 

Chris and I on Palatine Hill
Rome, Italy
May 11, 2024

Her depth of knowledge and expertise was evident throughout the Coliseum, Palatine Hill, and the Roman Forum. I have to admit, it is pretty incredible that modern Rome has allowed so much of its valuable real estate to be preserved to enable understanding the past and the Roman Empire. 

Did we see where Julius Caesar was assassinated? Yes.

Did we see where the Vestal Virgins lived? Yes. Did we enjoy the palace of the emperors? Yes. 

Am I overloaded? Most definitely yes. 

Did I allocate enough time for these tours? No.

Were we exhausted as the day drew to a close? Yes.

Did I spend over $100 on taxis to get from one place to another during the day? Sadly, yes. 

Am I in awe of the Romans and the Catholic Church? Yes.

Am I on information overload? Yes!

At the end of the day Chris and I had walked over 14,000 steps equating to over 6 miles! This was definitely a game of survivor tour.

Can Day 4 top Day 3? I hope not. Even as I write this I am feeling the exhaustion of the day. Tomorrow is planned to be a much slower day. And Monday we transfer to our cruise for 12 days. I am looking forward to a slower pace on the cruise.

Rome. It is not a place, it is an experience.

-- Bob Doan, Rome, Italy