Portofino and the Pearls

 

Truck on an Almost Large Enough Street
Portofino, Italy
May 15, 2024

Another day of walking tours and ferry rides marked most of our activities today. 

The total excursion time was shorter, but coming off a 10-hour day the day before, it seemed almost longer even though we made it back to the ship by 2 PM. We then took a much needed nap and enjoyed some quiet afternoon relaxation to recharge from the past two days. Thankfully, tomorrow is a sea day! Yay. Nothing much planned and certainly not another 14,000 step day. 

Sundial on a Building
Rapallo, Italy
May 15, 2024

We began the morning in Portofino! We were tendered from the ship to the port and that was an experience. And then there was the rain which made the steep streets slick. But we prevailed and saw some inspiring sights although the walking tours are blending into one another. Walking up the steep street in Portofino we came upon a truck driving down the street. There was almost enough room for the pedestrians to pass the truck. Fortunately the truck was smaller than my Ram 1500--because my truck would not fit on this street even with no pedestrians.

After time in Portofino, we ferried to Rapallo, Italy. It was a similar town to Portofino only larger. I found a large sundial on a building in the town square. We were treated to stories of pirates and churches with white robe and other churches with black robes. The tours from the boat created our own crowded conditions in the city, but we enjoyed a focaccia tasting and some coffee during the height of a driving rainstorm. I got very wet, but Chris was lucky to have a raincoat. 

OK, I am gonna say it: I am on walking tour overload. While I am getting a lot of information from the tours, I cannot catalog it all and most of it is getting lost. 

Statue of Christopher Columbus
Santa Margarita, Italy
May 15, 2024

Leaving Rapallo after just about two hours we ferried to Santa Margarita. No, there is no tequila there. 

Santa Margarita is much like Portofino and Rapallo. Built on the coast between the water and the mountain. The rain lessened while we were there, almost stopping. Being wet really made my enthusiasm wane. Santa Margarita is, in my opinion, the most beautiful of the three villages. They have a very nice harbor and a good looking beach. Diving and snorkeling look to be solid activities and the city has many shops. Sadly, by the time we arrived there, being wet and ready to return to the ship, my "who cares" attitude was in play and I missed all of the important historical aspects except that Santa Margarita claims to be the birthplace of Christopher Columbus and not Genoa as we were taught in school. Wait, and they also make expensive limoncello. 

My problem with the walking tours I have been on is that I do not get enough time to immerse myself into the culture and the history. I am getting a broad brush, often without context.

To summarize, today I saw olive trees, busy ports, small cities, mountains, bays, and churches. I am trying to get excited about the places I saw, but due to the rain and overcast I just am coming up short. 

I will enjoy the sea day and use it to improve my attitude. 

Pompeii awaits!

-- Bob Doan, at sea on Celebrity Constellation en route to Naples, Italy

Pisa, Florence, and Pickpockets

Pisa from the Bus
Pisa, Italy
May 14, 2024

The fun continues--with some security issues. Today we went to Pisa and Florence and encountered more pickpockets.

I guess in Italy, for some reason, teen girls choose to be pickpockets. In this case our tour guide identified them and informed them to leave our tour group alone, which they readily agreed to do. 

Pisa was fantastic. We were there early in the morning and able to use some of the beautiful morning light to capture the scene. The image of the cathedral and the Leaning Tower in the morning light that I took from the bus is really special. The walk from the bus parking to the Leaning Tower and Field of Miracles was treacherous, but doable.  

We then bussed to Florence of the remainder of the day and went on a walking tour of the biggest sights in the city. I wish we had more time to actually visit some of the sights, such as the museum where the statue of David resides. We had a great lunch on the tour which was pleasantly authentic Italian with wine! Included. But the free time at the end was far too short and I felt as if we saw the sights, but did not really get to experience them.

Crowds? Did I mention the crushing crowds? Today it was school kids all over the city as the end of the school year approaches. 

Today was a 10-hour tour and we were exhausted as we returned to the ship just before the gangway was supposed to be raised. We were in time for dinner, however.

-- Bob Doan, off the coast of Italy headed to Portofino

Connections and Sunsets

Sunset over the Sea as We Departed
Celebrity Constellation 
May 13, 2024

It was a vacation travel day. We transitioned from our lodging in Rome this morning to a train and then to the ship. There were more than a few moving pieces. 

First we walked the 1.4 km to the Termini train station dragging our luggage. That wasn't bad because I left enough time for us to get a pastry and coffee at one of the station shops. We needed the coffee. I think the last few days are curing me of my caffeine addiction.

Then the real fun began. I had to find which track the train to Citiavecchia, the Port for Rome, was on. Turned out to be platform 27. Then we had to thread our way through the train station, I am wholly unfamiliar with finding platforms in train stations--but we persevered and found our platform before the train arrived.

The trip to the port was over an hour and uneventful. We saw a lot of Italian countryside.  

Celebrity Constellation
Civtitavecchia, Italy
May 13, 2024

Arriving at the port we were faced with a quandary. My advance reading suggested that we could walk forom the train station to the ship. Standing there looking at the situation, and with a total of 7 cruise ships in port, out ship, Celebrity Constellation, was the furthest away and it was a long way. So now I was confronted with the decision to take a crowded bus which did not go all the way to the ship or pay an exorbitant €30 for a taxi for delivery to the ship. We were tired and chose taxi!

We made it to the ship and after standing in the processing line for over an hour because the Rome Port only had half of the security machines working, we arrived on the ship.

The ship is great and we left port shortly after 5 PM. We enjoyed our first dinner on the ship; meeting a nice couple and finding out that our staterooms are next door. 

Weird!

The only problem I am having is that I cannot get images to load into my blogging program due to crappy internet! Ugh! We pay a fortune for internet on the ship only to be confronted with trash!

Ah, well--we were sailing into the red sunset and the sea was almost flat. I have a great image that I will load later. 

Day 5 is complete and Day 6 is Florence and Pisa.

-- Bob Doan, at sea off the Italian Coast

Pickpockets, Sights, and Travel

 

Trevi Fountain
Rome, Italy
May 12, 2024

Chris was targeted twice by pickpockets and survived with no losses. We almost caught the most recent attempt in progress. 

Pickpockets are brutal in Rome. 

Fortunately, although Chris was carrying her purse, nothing valuable was inside. The purse was more of a decoy to protect where Chris was actually caring her valuables. The purse was being used as a place to hold her sunglasses and a couple other small items which were not what the pickpockets were after. 

Crowd at Trevi Fountain
Rome, Italy
MAy 12, 2024

We were on the Metro headed to Trevi Fountain when the most recent pickpocket attempt occurred.

Arriving at the fountain we were amazed at its  beauty, but it was also massively crowded. I understand why the locals believe that the tourists are robbing them of enjoying their local sights and monuments. 

From on top the Spanish Steps
Rome, Italy
May 12, 2024

We mastered the Metro and were able to get from our lodging to the area of the fountain expeditiously and inexpensively. From there we went on to the Spanish Steps.

Chris and I walked up the, I am told 135, steps to the top to enjoy the view of the city and the Piazza di Spagna. The view was beautiful, especially on the glorious weather day we experienced. 

Me at Angie's Restaurant Pizzeria
Rome, Italy
May 12, 2024

After exploring the high end hotels located near the top of the stairs we descended and looked for a place to enjoy a glass of wine and a mid-afternoon meal. We found a restaurant with a view of Spanish Square to enjoy a Mother's Day meal of authentic pasta and wine. By the time we finished our meal, the Piazza di Spagna was filled with people.

Today marks the end of our time in Rome until the very last night of our vacation. We head off to the cruise port later to board a ship for our cruise vacation. I have to admit that I am looking forward to the cruise because I don't have to ensure the logistics of getting from one place to another. For instance, this morning I have to get us from our lodging to the Termini Rail Station and then on the correct train to get to the cruise port, which is over an hour away. But wait--then I have to make sure we get off at the right stop!

 Ah, the joys of travel. 

-- Bob Doan, Rome, Italy

Ceilings

 

Ceiling
Vatican Museum, Vatican City
May 11,2024

Look up!

The ceiling above you may be interesting. 

That is what Chris and I. learned from our tour of the Vatican. The ornate ceilings adorned with works of art as something to be enjoyed. 

Ceiling Decorated with Baroque Style
Vatican Museum, Vatican City
May 11, 2024

No flat ceiling white paint was evident in the Vatican. Every ceiling, it seemed, had a story to tell. 

Why are our ceilings, by comparison, so boring? I remember when I was a senior in high school that my parents let me decorate my bedroom. I chose the colors red and black along with an aluminum foil wallpaper with a black design on it, but topped it all off by having Chris, because she was taller, paint the ceiling red! Now that was an interesting ceiling, for the time. It was too bad that I was off to college in less than a year and never returned to the room.

Seriously, I cannot compare that old country house to the Vatican, but the ceilings in the Vatican are worth looking up to admire. Important safety tip--stop walking when looking up. 

-- Bob Doan, Rome, Italy 

Survivor Tours

 

People in Line to Enter the Vatican Museums
Vatican City
8:21 AM, May 11, 2024

Chris and I played a game of survival tour today. 

Yes. For some reason, known only to me, I thought planning two three-hour tours on the same day would be a good idea. Maybe it was until, due to policy changes by the Italian government, our second tour of the day got moved up to 1:30 PM from 3 PM meaning that we had to hurry lunch and could not return to our AirBnB to freshen up before the second tour. 

The tours were both 3-hour scheduled tours, first of the morning with a 7:50 AM show time was the Vatican for Sistine Chapel and St Peter's Basilica. 

The second was a tour of the Coliseum, the Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill. Two great tours that deserved a day alone for each. I know better now!

St Peter's Basilica
Vatican City
May 11, 2024

The three-hour Vatican tour went four-hours! We learned more about the Vatican Museum, the Sistine Chapel, and St Peter's Basilica than we ever knew possible. Our tour guide was brilliant and we loved it. The big downer of the day? Crowds! OMG-the crowds of people were suffocating. 

Did I mention the crowds were suffocating? I have not been in crowds like this, ever! And it did not stop until we got off the Metro and returned to our AirBnB at the end of the day.

Did I have enough time to enjoy the Vatican museum and its collections? No!

The day started cold, in the 50s and quickly warmed into the high 70s. The skies were clear blue, as can be seen in the photos. The cold start to the morning meant we were over-dressed for most of the day. 

Swiss Guards
Vatican City
May 11, 2024

The Sistine Chapel was fabulous--well, except for the crowds. No pictures are allowed in the Sistine Chapel. I enjoyed seeing the Swiss Guards in their Medieval uniforms. Should I call them cute? It was also awe inspiring to see the place where St. Peter was crucified right behind where I took the image of the Swiss guards. 

We received an expert tour from our guide and we learned more about the painters and the sculptors commissioned by the popes than we ever thought possible. It was interesting both of the tours were insistent that we bring our passports for proof identity, but no one ever checked them. 

The Coliseum Under the Floor
Rome, Italy
May 11, 2024

Returning to the Coliseum, during the afternoon, for an inside tour was exciting.

The Coliseum is just--unimaginable. Yes, we see it in film and pictures, but to see it in person and understand the significance of the structure to the Romans and to grasp their ability to conquer technical engineering feats is remarkable.

We were fortunate to have as our guide a person who is working on her doctorate about bricks used by the Romans and who has extensively studied the Coliseum and participated in archaeological digs of Roman construction. The insights she provided during our over three-hours together were incredible. 

Chris and I on Palatine Hill
Rome, Italy
May 11, 2024

Her depth of knowledge and expertise was evident throughout the Coliseum, Palatine Hill, and the Roman Forum. I have to admit, it is pretty incredible that modern Rome has allowed so much of its valuable real estate to be preserved to enable understanding the past and the Roman Empire. 

Did we see where Julius Caesar was assassinated? Yes.

Did we see where the Vestal Virgins lived? Yes. Did we enjoy the palace of the emperors? Yes. 

Am I overloaded? Most definitely yes. 

Did I allocate enough time for these tours? No.

Were we exhausted as the day drew to a close? Yes.

Did I spend over $100 on taxis to get from one place to another during the day? Sadly, yes. 

Am I in awe of the Romans and the Catholic Church? Yes.

Am I on information overload? Yes!

At the end of the day Chris and I had walked over 14,000 steps equating to over 6 miles! This was definitely a game of survivor tour.

Can Day 4 top Day 3? I hope not. Even as I write this I am feeling the exhaustion of the day. Tomorrow is planned to be a much slower day. And Monday we transfer to our cruise for 12 days. I am looking forward to a slower pace on the cruise.

Rome. It is not a place, it is an experience.

-- Bob Doan, Rome, Italy

And the European Holiday is Off and Running

 

Chris Enjoying the Lounge
Miami, FL
May 9, 2024

I have an interesting thought? What counts as Day 1 and what is Day 2? 

ITA Airways Flight 631 at the Gate
Miami, FL
May 9, 2024

Day 1 started at 2:30 PM as we loaded into Fran and Mary's car for the too long trip to Miami International. We enjoyed time in the Turkish Airlines Lounge compliments of American Express and then loaded onto an ITA Airways A350 for the 10 hour flight across the Atlantic to Rome. 

The flight was fantastic. We received a full dinner, complete with Tuscan wine, followed by a morning continental breakfast with coffee. The movie selection left a bit to be desired, but hey, I found two movies to watch and then it was off to sleep in the Premium Economy seats. Chris said I probably have created a monster and she may never want to fly economy coach again. The service was excellent and I have to admit, the Italian cabin crew was very pleasant. ITA Airways is a definite keeper. Well, except for the baggage situation in Rome where it took over an hour for the luggage to get delivered and they never indicated which carousal it would arrive on. After being up for about 20 of the previous 24 hours I was a bit tense. We kept wandering around and Chris finally saw her luggage on the carousel. 

Chris and I Outside the Coliseum
Rome, Italy
 May 10, 2024

But hey, somewhere over the Atlantic, Day 2 began and we subsequently landed in Rome. I mean, Rome, Italy, not Rome, New York. 

I am not a huge fan of the Rome airport--but immigration and customs processing was really smooth. Maybe that is why I noticed how long the wait was for our baggage. For some reason Americans received expedited and automated processing. Way cool. 

The weather today was fantastic and pleasantly warm. We took a train to the main Rome train station, Termini and walked about 15 minutes to our AirBnB. That we managed the train stations without major catastrophes was a miracle. I had considered a taxi, but the taxi was 50 Euros and the train only cost 28 Euros. 

Ruins in a Park Near our AirBnB
Rome, Italy
May 10, 2024

Checkin to the AirBnB was smooth and we took a quick nap before heading out to explore the area. Dinner was, believe it or not, was a great place in Termini, which had a huge variety of foods, wines and of course gelato for dessert.

After dinner, I surprised Chris as we walked to the Coliseum. Yup, it is within walking distance. Not close, but definitely doable. We had explored some parks and looked around. We visited a grocery store for supplies and a bakery for breakfast--but the Coliseum, I knew, was a big thing for her. We have a tour scheduled for tomorrow, but walking down the hill to this mega attraction was really special for both of us. It really made the statement, we are in Rome! 

How much have I read about the Coliseum and how many movies have I watched where it is there? Countless.

I have also confirmed that there are palm trees in Rome!

Day 3 tomorrow is Vatican City and a tour of the Coliseum. We already have a schedule crisis as the company I have the Coliseum tour through called and moved the tour from 3 PM to 1:30 PM! Ugh. We are going to have to race from the Vatican to the Coliseum, however, since we walked over 12,000 steps today, tomorrow is a taxi day. 

We are in Rome--finally. The plan is being executed and changed. Remember, plans are made to be changed! Or is it that no plan survives first contact with the enemy? 

-- Bob Doan, Rome, Italy